Planting Guide
A Seasonal Guide to Growing What You Use
A practical planting calendar for herbs, fruit, flowers, and garden ingredients that bring your kitchen and garden to life throughout the year.
Know Your Zone
USDA Hardiness Zones — simplified
Every planting recommendation on this page references USDA hardiness zones. Find your zone at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov — just enter your zip code. Here's a simplified breakdown of what each zone range means for your garden.
Cool Climate
Zones 3–5
Minnesota, Michigan, Wisconsin, Montana, Maine, upstate New York, northern New England. Short growing seasons (90–150 days). Hard freezes common.
Mild Climate
Zones 6–7
Pacific Northwest, Mid-Atlantic, Virginia, Tennessee, Kansas, Colorado front range. Moderate winters, reliable four seasons. Most herbs overwinter with protection.
Warm Climate
Zones 8–9
Northern California, Oregon coast, Pacific Northwest lowlands, Georgia, Texas Hill Country, Arizona highlands. Long growing seasons. Citrus possible outdoors.
Hot Climate
Zones 10–13
Southern California, Arizona, South Florida, Hawaii, Gulf Coast. Near year-round growing. Heat management is the primary challenge. Citrus thrives.
Important: Zones describe minimum winter temperatures — not summer heat, rainfall, or humidity. Two gardens in Zone 8 can have wildly different growing conditions. Use your zone as a starting point, then observe your specific microclimate. A south-facing wall, raised bed, or urban heat island can push you a full zone warmer.
The Year at a Glance
What to do each season
Gardening is front-loaded — the work you do in late winter and early spring determines most of your harvest. Here's the rhythm of a productive bar garden through the year.
🌱
Spring
March – May · The momentum season
Spring is about getting things in the ground at the right time. Start tender herbs indoors 6–8 weeks before your last frost date. Harden off seedlings before transplanting. This is your highest-leverage window — a week early or late matters.
- Start basil, lemon thyme, and lemon verbena indoors (zones 5–7)
- Direct-sow mint, cilantro, and chives once soil hits 50°F
- Transplant rosemary, lavender, and sage after last frost
- Plant strawberries as soon as soil is workable
- Amend beds with compost before planting — 2–3 inches worked in
- Divide and repot overwintered perennial herbs
- Begin fruit tree dormant spraying (copper fungicide) before bud break
- Plant bare-root fruit trees early spring while still dormant
☀️
Summer
June – August · The harvest season
Summer is harvest season. The job shifts from planting to maintaining, harvesting, and preserving. Keep picking herbs to prevent bolting. Make syrups when yields peak. Watch for heat stress and water consistently.
- Harvest herbs in the morning before heat peaks — oils are most concentrated
- Pinch basil flowers weekly to extend the productive season
- Direct-sow cucumbers, jalapeños, and watermelon after soil warms to 65°F
- Make and freeze herb syrups at peak production
- Deep water fruit trees weekly — slow and deep beats frequent and shallow
- Mulch around all plants to retain moisture and regulate soil temp
- Harvest elderflowers in early summer before they fully open
- Side-dress heavy feeders (tomatoes, cucumbers) with compost mid-season
🍂
Fall
September – November · The transition season
Fall is for wrapping up warm-season crops and setting up next year. Plant cool-season herbs while temperatures drop. Divide perennials. Compost exhausted plants. This season's prep is next season's head start.
- Harvest and dry remaining herbs before first frost — hang or dehydrate
- Dig up tender perennials (lemon verbena, pineapple sage) to overwinter indoors
- Plant garlic in October for summer harvest
- Plant cool-season herbs: cilantro, chervil, parsley (zones 7+)
- Divide established lavender, rosemary, and thyme clumps
- Plant spring-fruiting strawberries in zones 6+ (September planting)
- Add 3–4 inches of compost to all beds before winter
- Stop fertilizing fruit trees 6 weeks before first frost
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Winter
December – February · The planning season
Winter is for planning, ordering seeds, and maintaining what's still growing. In zones 8+ many herbs continue producing. In colder zones, focus on indoor herb growing and soil building. Prune fruit trees while dormant.
- Order seeds in January — the best varieties sell out early
- Prune fruit trees and berry canes while fully dormant
- Grow herbs indoors under grow lights (mint, basil, chives)
- Test and amend soil pH — adjust before spring planting
- Protect citrus from frost with frost cloth in zones 8–9
- Start seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost date (late winter)
- Make cold-process compost — it will be ready by spring
- Clean, sharpen, and oil all garden tools
Month by Month
The planting calendar
Timing shifts by zone — adjust earlier for zones 8–10, later for zones 3–5. Zones 6–7 follow the baseline timing shown here. Items marked with * are start-indoors tasks.
January
Winter · Planning
Start / Plant
- Order seeds and bare-root plants
- Start rosemary indoors* (zones 5–7)
- Plant bare-root fruit trees (zones 8–10)
- Plant citrus (zones 9–10)
- Prune dormant fruit trees
Harvest
- Rosemary, thyme (zones 7+)
- Citrus — lemons, oranges (zones 9–10)
- Indoor herbs (all zones)
Tip: Order bare-root trees now — they ship dormant and establish better than container trees planted in summer.
February
Winter / Early Spring
Start / Plant
- Start basil, lavender, thyme indoors*
- Start lemon verbena indoors*
- Plant bare-root fruit trees (zones 6–8)
- Plant strawberries (zones 8–10)
- Sow mint indoors* (all zones)
Harvest
- Citrus peak — Meyer lemon, navel orange
- Rosemary, thyme, sage (zones 7+)
- Indoor basil and mint (all zones)
Tip: Lavender needs 8–10 weeks indoors before transplanting. Start it now for a May planting date.
March
Early Spring
Start / Plant
- Start basil, cucumber, jalapeño indoors*
- Direct-sow cilantro, chervil, chives
- Plant strawberries (zones 6–8)
- Transplant lavender, rosemary (zones 8+)
- Plant blueberry bushes
- Start tomatoes indoors*
Harvest
- Chives, parsley (overwintered)
- Rosemary, thyme, sage
- Late citrus (zones 9–10)
Tip: Don't rush basil outdoors — it sulks below 60°F. Wait until nights are reliably warm.
April
Spring
Start / Plant
- Transplant lavender, rosemary, thyme (zones 6–7)
- Direct-sow mint (zones 6+)
- Plant strawberries (zones 5–6)
- Harden off basil and tomato seedlings
- Plant elderberry shrubs
- Sow borage, nasturtium direct
Harvest
- Mint, chives, parsley (zones 7+)
- Strawberries (zones 9–10)
- Early lavender (zones 9–10)
Tip: Borage and nasturtium self-seed prolifically. Plant once and they come back every year.
May
Late Spring
Start / Plant
- Transplant basil outdoors (after last frost)
- Direct-sow cucumber, watermelon (zones 7+)
- Plant jalapeño and tomato transplants
- Plant lemon thyme, lemon verbena
- Plant hibiscus (Roselle) (zones 8+)
- Transplant lavender (zones 5–6)
Harvest
- Strawberries (zones 7–8)
- Mint, basil, chives (all zones)
- Lavender (zones 8–9)
- Elderflower (zones 6–8)
Tip: Elderflower has a short window — harvest when clusters are just opening, not fully open. Fragrance is the guide.
June
Early Summer
Start / Plant
- Direct-sow cucumber, watermelon (zones 5–6)
- Succession-sow basil every 3 weeks
- Plant fall strawberries (zones 9–10)
- Sow second round of cilantro
Harvest
- Strawberries (zones 5–7) — peak
- Lavender (zones 6–8) — peak
- Elderflower (zones 7–9)
- Mint, basil, thyme, rosemary
- Early blueberries (zones 7–8)
Tip: Succession-sow basil every 3 weeks through July to maintain a continuous harvest all summer.
July
Peak Summer
Start / Plant
- Start fall herbs from seed (parsley, chervil)
- Sow cilantro for fall harvest
- Plant fall-bearing strawberries (zones 6–8)
Harvest
- Blueberries — peak (zones 5–8)
- Cucumbers — begin harvesting
- Jalapeños — first harvest
- Peaches — early varieties
- Basil, mint, lemon thyme — peak
- Watermelon — early varieties
Tip: Pick cucumbers small (4–6 inches) for better flavor and to keep the plant producing. Large cucumbers signal the plant to stop fruiting.
August
Late Summer
Start / Plant
- Start rosemary, lavender cuttings for fall
- Sow cool-season herbs (zones 7+)
- Plant garlic (zones 9–10, early)
Harvest
- Tomatoes — peak (heirloom varieties)
- Watermelon — peak
- Jalapeños — peak heat
- Peaches — main season
- Blueberries — late varieties
- Hibiscus flowers (zones 8+)
Tip: Harvest heirloom tomatoes for Bloody Mary tomato water now — juice and freeze in ice cube trays for year-round use.
September
Early Fall
Start / Plant
- Plant garlic (zones 6–8)
- Plant strawberries for spring fruiting (zones 6–8)
- Transplant cool-season herbs outdoors
- Plant spring-flowering bulbs alongside herbs
- Sow cilantro, chervil direct
Harvest
- Late tomatoes and jalapeños
- Rosemary, thyme — excellent quality
- Elderberries (zones 4–8)
- Early apples and pears
- Hibiscus (Roselle) — main harvest
Tip: Dry hibiscus (Roselle) calyces now — spread on screens in a warm, dry spot for 1–2 weeks. Dried hibiscus keeps for a year in an airtight jar.
October
Mid Fall
Start / Plant
- Plant garlic (zones 4–6) — main window
- Plant spring bulbs through the herb garden
- Plant bare-root fruit trees (zones 8–10)
- Divide and replant perennial herbs
- Plant overwintering onions (zones 6+)
Harvest
- Apples, pears — main harvest
- Late jalapeños before frost
- Rosemary, sage, thyme — dry now
- Quince (excellent for syrups)
Tip: Quince is underused in cocktail bars — the fruit makes a stunning syrup that pairs beautifully with bourbon and rye.
November
Late Fall
Start / Plant
- Plant garlic (final window, zones 4–5)
- Bring tender herbs indoors before hard freeze
- Plant cover crop on empty beds
- Plant bare-root fruit trees (zones 9–10)
Harvest
- Rosemary, sage, thyme (last outdoor harvest, cold zones)
- Late apples — storage varieties
- Early citrus (zones 9–10)
- Persimmons — excellent for syrups
Tip: Bring rosemary inside before it gets below 20°F. It looks hardy but doesn't recover from a hard freeze. A sunny windowsill keeps it going all winter.
December
Winter
Start / Plant
- Prune dormant fruit trees (zones 8–10)
- Order seeds for next year
- Start herb seeds indoors under lights
- Plant citrus (zones 10+)
Harvest
- Indoor herbs — mint, chives, basil
- Citrus — navel oranges, Meyer lemons (zones 9–10)
- Rosemary, thyme (zones 7+)
Tip: A basic grow light setup ($40–80) over a windowsill keeps basil and mint producing all winter. Well worth it if you make cocktails regularly.
Know What You're Growing
Plant profiles — bar garden edition
From easy perennials to trickier fruiting plants. Know what each plant needs and you'll rarely lose one.
Herbs
Mint
Nearly indestructible. Spreads aggressively by underground runners — always grow in a container or buried pot. Plant once and harvest for years. Spearmint is mildest; peppermint is stronger. How to use mint in drinks →
PlantSpring after last frost, or any time in zones 8+
HarvestMay–October. Cut stems to 1/3 to encourage bushy growth.
Bar useMojitos, juleps, syrups, garnish
Pot it. Never plant mint in the open ground unless you want it everywhere forever.
Basil
The trickiest common herb — basil hates cold and will sulk, blacken, or die if temperatures drop below 50°F. Get this right and it rewards you generously.
StartIndoors 6 weeks before last frost. Transplant only when nights stay above 55°F.
Spacing12 inches apart. Needs good air circulation.
HarvestPinch from the top, never strip the bottom. Remove flower buds the moment they appear.
LifespanAnnual — lasts until first frost. Succession plant every 3 weeks.
Bar useSmashes, syrups, garnish, infused oils
Never refrigerate fresh basil — it blackens immediately. Store stems in water at room temperature like flowers.
Rosemary
Woody, drought-tolerant, and long-lived. Can grow into a large shrub in warm zones. Needs excellent drainage — root rot in wet soil is the main killer. In zones 5–6, overwinter in a pot indoors.
PlantSpring, after last frost. Cuttings root easily in summer.
HarvestYear-round in zones 7+. Take stem tips — don't cut into old wood.
Bar useSyrups, infusions, garnish, smoke
Lightly slap a rosemary sprig between your palms before using as garnish — releases the oils dramatically.
Thyme & Lemon Thyme
Common thyme is one of the most reliable perennials in the bar garden. Lemon thyme has a bright citrus note that makes it especially useful for cocktails. Both are nearly care-free once established.
PlantSpring. Divide established plants every 2–3 years to keep productive.
HarvestYear-round in zones 6+. Most flavorful just before flowering.
Bar useGimlets, smashes, syrups, honey infusions
Lemon thyme is a separate variety — look for it specifically. The lemon scent is dramatically more pronounced than common thyme.
Lavender
Beautiful, fragrant, and slightly demanding about drainage. Lavender dies quickly in wet or heavy clay soil. Get the soil right and it lives for 10+ years. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is hardiest and most culinary.
SoilSandy, well-draining, slightly alkaline (pH 6.5–7.5). Amend with grit or perlite if needed.
PlantSpring after frost. Space 18–24 inches — needs air circulation.
HarvestCut when buds are just opening, not fully bloomed. Morning is best.
PruneHard prune by 1/3 after flowering. Never cut into old woody growth — it won't regrow.
Bar useSyrups, spritzes, lemonade, garnish
Dry surplus lavender by hanging upside down in a warm, dark spot for 2 weeks. Dried buds make syrup year-round and keep their fragrance for months.
Lemon Verbena
Intensely lemon-scented — more lemon than any citrus peel. Goes dormant in winter and looks dead but comes back in spring. In zones 6–7 grow in a pot and bring indoors before frost.
PlantAfter last frost. Needs warmth to thrive.
HarvestPick leaves any time. Most intense before flowering.
Bar useSyrups, infusions, gin pairings, mocktails
A small handful of lemon verbena leaves steeped in simple syrup creates one of the most elegant bar syrups you can make.
Berries & Fruiting Plants
Strawberries
One of the easiest fruits to grow in a raised bed or container. June-bearing types produce one large crop; everbearing types produce smaller crops spring through fall. Renovate beds every 3–4 years.
PlantEarly spring or fall (zones 6+). Set crown at soil level — too deep rots, too shallow dries out.
HarvestFully red, slightly soft. Pick every 2–3 days at peak.
Bar useSmashes, shrubs, syrups, garnish
Freeze excess strawberries flat on a sheet pan, then bag them. Frozen berries muddle just as well as fresh and extend your season.
Blueberries
Blueberries are a long-term investment — they take 3–4 years to reach full production but can live and produce for 20–30 years. The key requirement is acidic soil. Most garden soil is too alkaline.
Soil pH4.5–5.5 is essential. Test before planting. Amend with sulfur or use acidifying fertilizer.
PlantEarly spring. Plant at least 2 varieties for cross-pollination and better yields.
HarvestJune–August depending on variety. Berries need 5–7 days after turning blue to fully sweeten.
PruningRemove oldest canes after year 6. Light annual pruning keeps yields high.
Bar useMojitos, shrubs, syrups, muddled in smashes
Plant two different varieties (early and mid-season) for a longer harvest window and significantly better yields through cross-pollination.
Elderberry
Produces both elderflowers (spring) and elderberries (fall) — two separate harvest opportunities. Fast-growing shrub that can reach 8–12 feet. Flowers are the main bar ingredient; berries require cooking before use.
PlantSpring or fall. Plant 2 for cross-pollination.
FlowersHarvest May–June when clusters are 70% open.
BerriesHarvest September when fully black. Never eat raw — must be cooked.
Bar useElderflower syrup, cordial, spritz
Elderflower season lasts only 2–3 weeks. When they bloom, drop everything and make syrup. You can also freeze the flower heads for later use.
Hibiscus (Roselle)
Hibiscus sabdariffa (Roselle) is the variety used for syrups and tea — not ornamental hibiscus. Grows fast in heat, producing tart red calyces in late summer and fall. Harvest the calyces (the fleshy base around the seed pod), not the petals.
PlantStart indoors 6–8 weeks before last frost. Needs warm soil — don't rush outdoors.
HarvestAugust–October. Calyces are ready when they're bright red and slightly swollen.
DrySpread on screens in warm, dry air for 1–2 weeks. Store airtight up to 1 year.
Bar useHibiscus syrup, Palomas, teas, mocktails
Look for 'Roselle' or 'Jamaican Sorrel' specifically — not all hibiscus varieties produce the tart calyces used in drinks.
Bar-Ready Vegetables
Cucumber
Easy to grow and highly productive once conditions are right. Cucumbers need warm soil (65°F+), consistent water, and a trellis. Bush varieties work in containers; vining types produce more but need space.
PlantDirect sow after soil reaches 65°F or start indoors 3 weeks before transplanting.
HarvestPick at 4–6 inches for best flavor. Check daily at peak season.
Bar useGin and tonic, Pimm's Cup, garnish, infused water
Consistent watering is critical — uneven moisture causes bitter cucumbers. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation if possible.
Jalapeño
One of the most productive plants in the bar garden — a single plant can produce 25–35 peppers per season. Heat increases as the season progresses and as peppers ripen to red. Start indoors early — they're slow to establish.
StartIndoors 8–10 weeks before last frost. They need warmth to germinate (75–85°F).
HarvestGreen for milder heat (July+); red for more heat and sweetness (August–September).
Bar useMargaritas, infused tequila, syrups, garnish
Jalapeño-infused tequila: slice 2–3 peppers, combine with 750ml tequila, taste every 30 minutes until desired heat. Strain and bottle.
Heirloom Tomatoes
The most rewarding and demanding plant in the bar garden. Heirloom varieties produce complex, flavorful tomato water that no grocery store variety can match. Worth the effort — but they require consistent attention.
StartIndoors 6–8 weeks before last frost. Transplant deep — bury the stem up to the lowest leaves.
SupportCage or stake at planting. Don't wait — plants become unwieldy fast.
WaterDeep and consistent. Irregular watering causes blossom end rot and cracking.
FeedCompost at planting; liquid seaweed every 2 weeks once fruiting begins.
HarvestJuly–September. Pick when fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
Bar useBloody Mary tomato water, basil oil, shrubs
Best varieties for tomato water: Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Black Krim. These have the complex, low-acid flavor that makes tomato water sing.
Fruit & Citrus Trees
Meyer Lemon
The most useful citrus tree for a bar garden — Meyer lemons are sweeter and less acidic than grocery lemons, with an almost floral quality. They produce nearly year-round in warm climates and do remarkably well in large containers in cooler zones.
Container15–25 gallon pot. Move indoors when temps drop below 30°F.
Sun6–8 hours minimum. South-facing location preferred.
WaterDeep water, then allow soil to partially dry. Never let roots sit in water.
HarvestYear-round, peaking November–March. Fully yellow and slightly soft.
FertilizeCitrus-specific organic fertilizer every 6–8 weeks during growing season.
Bar useFresh juice in nearly every cocktail, expressed peel, preserved lemons
A single mature Meyer lemon tree produces more lemons than most households can use. Share with neighbors or make preserved lemons — they last a year and elevate every cocktail they touch.
Lime (Mexican / Key Lime)
Mexican limes (Key limes) are smaller, more aromatic, and more acidic than Persian limes. They thrive in heat and produce prolifically. In cooler zones, grow in a container and bring indoors in fall.
HarvestYear-round in warm zones. Pick when yellow-green and slightly soft.
Container15-gallon minimum. Needs warmth — don't let temps drop below 32°F.
Bar useMargaritas, daiquiris, gin and tonic, nearly every sour
Key lime juice is more floral and complex than Persian lime. Once you make a margarita with fresh Key lime juice you won't go back.
Peach
Peaches are one of the most rewarding fruit trees for a home garden — few grocery store peaches come close to a tree-ripened fruit. They need chill hours (cold winter temps) to fruit properly, making them unsuitable for zones 10+.
Chill hoursMost varieties need 700–1000 hours below 45°F. Low-chill varieties for zones 8–9.
PlantBare-root in late winter/early spring while still dormant.
HarvestJuly–August. Fruit is ready when it pulls easily from the branch with a slight twist.
Bar useBourbon smashes, bellinis, syrups, shrubs
Plant a dwarf variety (Bonanza, Garden Gold) if space is limited. They top out at 5–6 feet, are easy to net against birds, and produce full-sized fruit.
Fig
Figs are surprisingly easy — they produce heavily with minimal care, don't need pollination partners, and grow vigorously even in containers. Brown Turkey and Chicago Hardy are the most cold-tolerant varieties.
HarvestJuly–September (main crop). Ripe when slightly soft and drooping on the branch.
ContainerWorks well in large pots. Restrict roots to limit size and increase fruiting.
Bar useFig-bourbon old fashioneds, syrups, shrubs, garnish
Fig and bourbon is one of the great underexplored combinations in home cocktail making. A fresh fig muddled into an Old Fashioned is exceptional.
Feed the Garden
Organic fertilizing — what actually works
Organic fertilizing is about building soil health over time, not just feeding plants. Healthy soil feeds the plant; sick soil makes you dependent on synthetic inputs. These are the products and practices that make a real difference.
Compost
Varies · ~1-1-1 balanced
The foundation of every organic garden. Compost improves soil structure, feeds beneficial microbes, retains moisture, and slowly releases nutrients. No synthetic fertilizer comes close to what good compost does for your soil long-term.
Use: 2–3 inches worked into beds before planting. Top-dress around established plants mid-season. Compost tea as a liquid feed every 4–6 weeks.
Fish Emulsion
Typically 5-1-1 · Nitrogen-rich
Fast-acting nitrogen source that greens up plants quickly. Particularly useful for leafy herbs in spring when they need a push. It smells unpleasant but dissipates within a day. Don't overuse — too much nitrogen suppresses flowering and fruiting.
Use: Dilute per label (typically 1 tbsp per gallon). Apply every 2–4 weeks to herbs in active growth. Stop once you want flowering or fruiting to begin.
Worm Castings
~1-0-0 · Mild, safe, microbially rich
The gentlest organic fertilizer available — impossible to over-apply. Worm castings improve soil microbiology, enhance nutrient uptake, and add humus. Especially useful for seedlings and container plants where synthetic fertilizers burn easily.
Use: Mix into potting soil at 10–20% by volume. Top-dress containers monthly. Add a handful to each planting hole.
Kelp Meal / Seaweed Extract
Low NPK · High micronutrients + growth hormones
Kelp is a soil conditioner more than a fertilizer. It contains natural growth hormones (cytokinins) that improve root development, stress resistance, and fruit set. Liquid seaweed extract is the most versatile form — use it as a foliar spray or soil drench.
Use: Liquid seaweed every 2–3 weeks during growing season. Foliar spray at half strength in early morning. Especially valuable for tomatoes, peppers, and fruit trees during fruiting.
Bone Meal
~3-15-0 · Phosphorus-rich
Phosphorus drives root development and flower/fruit production. Bone meal is the organic standard for promoting blooms and fruit set. Work it into the planting hole for fruit trees, roses, and any flowering plant. Slow-release — effects last months.
Use: Work 1–2 cups into each planting hole for trees and shrubs. Mix into beds at 3 lbs per 100 sq ft before planting. Apply once per season.
Citrus & Fruit Tree Fertilizer
Balanced with added micronutrients (Fe, Mn, Zn)
Citrus specifically needs iron, manganese, and zinc that generic fertilizers don't provide. Yellowing leaves between green veins (chlorosis) is the most common sign of micronutrient deficiency. Use a citrus-specific organic blend — Down to Earth Citrus Mix is reliable.
Use: Every 6–8 weeks during growing season (March–September). Scratch lightly into soil surface under the canopy drip line. Water in thoroughly. Stop in fall to avoid pushing tender growth before frost.
Organic Fertilizing Schedule — The Full Year
Late Winter (Feb–Mar)
Top-dress all beds with 2–3 inches of compost. Work in bone meal at 3 lbs per 100 sq ft. Begin citrus fertilizing schedule in zones 8+. Apply dormant copper spray to fruit trees before bud break.
Spring (Apr–May)
Begin fish emulsion applications every 2–3 weeks for herbs in active growth. Apply kelp drench to newly transplanted seedlings. Side-dress strawberries with worm castings as they flower.
Early Summer (Jun)
Switch from nitrogen-heavy fish emulsion to balanced fertilizer as herbs approach peak. Begin kelp foliar spray on tomatoes and peppers every 2 weeks. Apply citrus fertilizer (last application before summer heat).
Peak Summer (Jul–Aug)
Side-dress tomatoes and cucumbers with compost mid-season. Continue seaweed drench every 2–3 weeks. Don't push nitrogen — plants should be fruiting, not growing. Mulch heavily to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Fall (Sep–Oct)
Add 3–4 inches of compost to all beds after clearing spent plants. Plant garlic with bone meal in the planting hole. Stop fertilizing fruit trees 6 weeks before first frost. Last citrus fertilizer application in September.
Winter (Nov–Jan)
No fertilizing in cold-zone gardens. In zones 8+ continue citrus feeding at half rate through winter. Build compost. Prune dormant fruit trees. Test soil pH and amend if needed — amendments take months to change soil chemistry.
From the Blog
Drink responsibly. Every mocktail on this site is just as good as the cocktail version. Enjoy the garden. Enjoy the bar. Be safe, be kind, and look after each other.